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The Dead Bombers of Halabja

In the 1980s, the city of Habbaniyah in western Iraq was the site of one of Saddam Hussein’s chemical weapons plants. With the Kurds in northern Iraq in uprising, in 1988 Saddam ordered Iraqi Air Force units to drop chemical weapons on the rebel town of Halabja. Weapons were trucked from Habbaniyah to nearby Al Taqaddum air base. The subsequent gas bombing of Halabja killed 5,000 people.
justice_planes.jpgI’ve been to Halabja. I’ve seen the massive cemetery and the recently-built memorial and I’ve talked to attack survivors and people who lost friends and family there. Now I’ve seen Habbaniyah, from a distance, and Al Taqaddum close-up. In a remote corner of the air base, now a Marine Corps logistics hub, there is a row of derelict Soviet-built Il-28 Beagle bombers from the former Iraqi Air Force, quite possibly the very bombers that attacked Halabja 18 years ago.
I’m a huge aviation buff, and the Il-28 with its clean lines and anachronistic rear turret is one of my favorite Cold War aircraft. Under any other circumstances, I’d be thrilled to see these museum pieces and appalled at their neglect. But with Halabja on my mind, I feel only a sense of justice — and anger — entirely misdirected at these lifeless pieces of metal.
In the first Gulf War we bombed the snot out of Habbaniyah and Al Taqaddum. Twelve years later we occupied the air base and found its resident aircraft either buried in sand or, like the Beagles, abandoned. Their pilots were dead or, at the very least, no longer pilots. Their engines were rusted out. Their windscreens were clouded over. Their turret guns drooped.
The machines that killed Halabja were dead.
–David Axe

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{ 6 comments… read them below or add one }

Vladimir van Wilgenburg January 23, 2006 at 7:05 pm

Thank god they are. But actually some of those pilots are protected by those same Kurds!
http://vladimirkurdistan.blogspot.com/2005/10/talabani-protects-ex-baathists.html

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Mike January 23, 2006 at 8:35 pm

And I’ve got the altimeter from one of them! TQ was a nice place to live – I wonder how my ‘old room’ in the control tower looks these days.

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Hugh Norton January 24, 2006 at 9:03 am

Really enjoyed that update. Any chance of posting more photos, or even a link to your flickr? Thanks.

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Flarkin January 27, 2006 at 9:26 am

I have a short video of the bombers and aq few pics taken here a few weeks ago if you are interested. Drop me an email and I’ll send you the blog address.

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Bob December 28, 2006 at 10:20 am

I found them on Google Earth:
33.3576573071, 43.5734286875
There’re a million Chinooks, Cobras, and Kiowas on the base now, too.
And in the southeast, you can make out a bombed Tupolev in an aircraft shelter….

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Don March 20, 2009 at 9:54 am

I too was at T.Q. 05-06 as a contractor, although I didn’t know what kind of aircraft these were, I did take a moment and urinate on a couple.

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